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Short answer: 90% of “door won’t close” problems are fixable in 2 minutes without calling anyone. Check these 5 things in order — if none of them work, it’s usually a bad logic board or stripped gear ($165-$230 pro fix).
📞 Call (210) 939-8399 — Free quote in 2 minutes
#1: Check the safety sensors (most common — 60% of cases)
Every garage door opener made after 1993 has two small sensors about 6 inches off the floor, one on each side of the door. They shoot an invisible infrared beam. If anything breaks that beam (or if the sensors aren’t aligned), the door will NOT close — this is a federally-mandated safety feature.
What to check:
- Look at each sensor. One should show a green LED, the other red (or both green depending on the brand). If either is off or flickering, the sensors aren’t talking.
- Wipe the lenses with a soft cloth. Dust, spider webs, or sap is the #1 cause.
- Move anything in front of them — a broom, a garage bin, a bike tire. Anything breaking the beam stops the door.
- Grab each sensor and gently nudge it until both LEDs go steady. Sun glare in the afternoon can make them think the beam is broken.
Cost: $0. Time: 2 minutes.
#2: Try closing with the WALL button (not the remote)
If the door closes from the wall button but not the remote → you have a remote problem. Probably a dead battery or a need to reprogram. If it doesn’t close from either → keep reading.
To reprogram a remote: press the “Learn” button on the opener head (usually a small colored button, orange/purple/yellow), then within 30 seconds press the remote button you want to use. You should hear a click or see the light flash. Most openers, done.
Cost: $3 battery if needed. Time: 5 minutes.
#3: Check the track for obstructions
Visually inspect the tracks on both sides. Look for:
- Dents in the track metal (a kicked soccer ball, a bumped car)
- Loose bolts or brackets holding the track to the wall
- Debris in the track channel — screws, pebbles, toys
- Track not level — one side sagging
A bent track is a pro fix ($149+). Loose bolts and debris you can tighten/clean in 2 minutes.
#4: Check the travel limit setting
Every opener has a “travel limit” — how far down it tries to move before stopping. If the limit is set too short, the door stops 2-6 inches above the floor.
On most LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Craftsman, and Genie openers, there are two small adjustment screws on the side of the opener housing, labeled “UP” and “DOWN” (or “OPEN” and “CLOSE”). Turn the DOWN screw clockwise a half-turn, try the door, repeat until it closes fully.
Cost: $0. Time: 5 minutes.
#5: Check if the force setting has drifted
The “force” setting controls how hard the opener pushes. If the door is heavier than before (because a spring is weakening) and the force is low, the opener thinks it hit something and reverses. This also shows as: door opens 6 inches and stops.
Most openers have FORCE adjustment screws next to the travel limits. Turn up slightly.
Warning: don’t crank the force all the way up — that defeats the safety reversal and a door could crush someone or something. Turn it just enough to close reliably. If you need max force, something else is wrong (usually a failing spring — see our spring lifespan guide).
None of the 5 worked — what now?
If you’ve checked sensors, wall button, tracks, travel limit, and force — and the door still won’t close — it’s one of these, all pro fixes:
| Problem | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Dead safety sensor (not just misaligned) | $145 for sensor pair + install |
| Failed logic board | $230–$320 |
| Broken torsion spring | $189 installed |
| Snapped cable | $149 + parts |
| Stripped drive gear | $185 |
| Diagnostic visit (waived if we fix it) | $129 flat |
📞 Call (210) 939-8399 — Free quote in 2 minutes
When to call immediately (don’t try DIY)
Call a pro without trying any of the above if:
- You hear/heard a loud bang — probably a snapped spring. Don’t use the opener.
- The door has dropped or fallen — cable or spring failure. Stabilize safely, don’t try to lift.
- Wires are dangling from the opener or a wall junction box — shock risk.
- The door has visible damage (dents, bent panels, broken glass).
We’re in San Antonio + Round Rock, typically 60-90 minute dispatch. See opener repair pricing for details.